Integra rear fog install




















Side Mirror Signal Lights. Fender Flares. Towing Mirrors. Tonneau Cover. Side step bars Nerf Bars. Front Bull Bar. Window Visor. Chrome Door Handles. Chrome Mirror Covers. Trunk Lid Cover. Lights Cover. Side Mirrors. Rear Spoiler. Horn Kit. Roof Rack. Tow Hook. Rear Step Bumper. Pillar Trim. Tow Trailer Hitch. Fuel Door. Car Cover. Tail Gate Protector. Truck Bed Side Rail. Rear Bumper Guard.

Tool Box. Rail Cap. Chase Rack. Mud Guard. Light Bar Bracket. Window Louvers. Truck Bed Liner. Catback Exhaust. Catalytic Converter. Down Pipe. Test Pipe. Turbo Manifold.

Intake Manifold. Again, for those that are electrically well-versed, you can skip to the circuit diagram at the bottom of this guide and perform the installation at your own pace or method. For the complete legality scoop regarding rear fog lamps usage in the state of California, refer to CVC The only item that you should be concerned about is clause 5, which states that an amber pilot indicator light is lighted when the rear fog light is turned on.

Easy to wire up to an LED, or follow the optional rear fog light indicator mod at the bottom of this guide. Obviously if you reside in a different state or country, you should consult your local vehicle code for legality. Part : SP0-X10, sold in a bag of 10 pcs. This is the piece where the actual rear fog light sits in and is screwed onto. Trace the lip of the trim on a piece of paper. Take the rear fog light outer trim and test fit it into your template.

You may need to make a few changes to ensure a snug fit. Next, take a pen or a Sharpie and trace over the template cutout onto the taped surface of the rear bumper:. Stand back and examine the template affixed to your rear bumper. It is imperative that you wear safety goggles. Start by cutting inside the traced line using a Dremel, AllTrade or similar rotary cutting tool equipped with a cut-off disc:.

Be ready to use up to 5 or more fiberglass cut-off discs for the cutting less if you use cut-off discs designed to cut through metal. It is important that you wear safety goggles to protect your eyes from the flying debris. Another thing to note is the melted plastic flakes flying off the cutting job is also very hot. I recommend wearing a sweater to avoid minute-burns.

Once the base pattern is cut, you can switch the bit to a grinding to level out the curved corners:. Finish with a sanding disc for a clean presentation. Test fit the outer trim. If the hole is too small, you can use a grinder bit and gradually widen up the hole. If you cut an oversized hole from the start, it could leave to mounting problems.

The key point is to take your time and pace yourself. It took me about 1 hour to perfect the hole. Remove the tailgate panel by pulling it upward with slight force.

Align the 3 notches and key slot, then press the two pieces together until they snap into place to ensure a secure mount. Finally, insert the rear fog lamp into the outer trim and secure the lamp into the housing with two screws. Alternatively, you can use two nuts and bolts in place of the screw. This will prevent the rear fog light from being easily removed:.

If you are going to use nuts and bolts, remove the two original spring clips from the inner garnish. The bolts used were M5. For extra security, you may use two nuts per bolt instead of one.

Plus everything you need is already part of the harness; no need to purchase additional parts. All you need to do is rearrange a few terminal joints and make a few wire splices to lengthen the power wire. The odd thing is, the fogs are getting power and working just fine.

That's why I can't figure out what's keeping my rear defroster from working. Any ideas on how to fix it? Did you splice the 3 wires together? The fog wire into the defroster power wires? Basically you're adding the fog wire to the defroster power wire.

I forgot to do that part when I redid my fog mod. A few people I've heard about having this problem say its the switch itself. Though, some say its a relay of some kind. My rear defroster switch doesn't stay in the on position either. I've never bothered with fixing it, as I rarely drive it in conditions where I need it, but there have been a few times where it has left me rather pissed off, lol. It actually worked this morning.

I think that it's either a bad wire, a short, or maybe I just didn't give the defroster time to warm up and get the moisture off the rear window.



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